If you love nature and walking, this is the perfect destination for you even when many parts of Japan is sweltering in summer.
Stepping off the platform at Karuizawa station, one could not help but feel that this is an unconventional part of Japan— a best kept secret that the natives probably like to keep for themselves.
I am in the Europe of Japan, the Shin-karuizawa area of karuizawa town. With my friend, Rosemary, we have come here with the sole purpose of “Momijigari” — an activity to view autumn leaves, specifically the maple leaves of Japan. No skyscrapers are visible, no obstructive sign boards and no heart stopping traffic in sight. What capture my senses is the crisp, cool and pristine air and the open spaces that this place instantly avails.
Karuizawa and its history
Karuizawa town’s total area of 156 sq km with a population close to 18000 is nestled in the east end of Nagano prefecture at the foot of Mount Asama, 1000 metres above sea-level. The average temperature here is 22 degrees though in winter it can be colder than Hokkaido. Originally it functioned as one of the shukubas or post stations for travellers who sought lodgings and transit for their goods and horses during the Edo era. In the Meiji era, the place declined when travellers to this place reduced.
In 1886, an English missionary, Alexander Croft Shaw came to Karuizawa and loved this place as it reminded him of his native Scotland. He set up residence in Kyu karuizawa (Old Karuizawa). Other foreign missionaries followed suit and today it is not surprising to find many small churches dotting the wooded hinterland. Many famous people also came to build their cottages here as their second residences.
With the development of the high speed rail link, it has become a very popular summer retreat from Tokyo’s fast paced life and also the suffocating heat in the summer months. Karuizawa is known during the 1998 winter olympics to hold the curling events though it was hosted in Nagano. Another notable event was that the fact that Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko first met each other at the Karuizawa Tennis court in 1957 and romance blossomed between them .
Plenty of Activities for the nature lovers
Karuizawa is a blissful sanctuary for nature lovers and hot spring aficionados.
As an avid walker, I am immensely interested in the abundant walking trails that this town gives. For a start, walking down Hondori (main street) from Karuizawa station then turning into Kyu karuizawa Ginza street, looking at the architecture of each low level building is a delectable experience. Some are still restored to old ryokans (traditional Japanese inns).
Around this time in October, the trees lining the roads are already ablaze with the yellow, orange and red hues of autumn.
Many of the shops in the buildings sell Japanese mechandise, jams and juices being an outstanding produce and gift ideas from this town. Delicious bakeries, fine craft shops, souvenir shops, ham and sausage eateries, boutique hotels, fine dining restaurants make us stop in our tracks to check them out. The myriad number of art museums and galleries can also be enjoyed for an entrance fee.
Indeed, many visitors use rented bicycles to explore Karuizawa town. Taxis or rented cars may help one access further spots.
At the end of Kyu Karuizawa, the stores vanished to be taken over by lush birch and larch trees which seem to spread out into eternity. Around this area, we spotted the Shaw Memorial Chapel and behind it is the Shaw house which is a two storied wooden building that has a Japanese exterior but European interior. This is the first western styled summer house of Karuizawa. Looking out from his windows, one can understand how Alexander Croft Shaw is charmed by the rich green forest and the peace of the surroundings.
At the bus stand not too far away (Nite bridge), a vintage looking red Karuizawa kotsu bus would stop at scheduled times and allow visitors to get off at several stops. One way is Y500 but two ways is Y750. The kotsu bus commences from Karuizawa station and provides a perfect way to enjoy all the sights of this quaint town.
With this bus, we had a pleasant ride up the inclined path to the Usui Pass Observation Platform. By walking, it takes 1 hour 30 minutes. This summit otherwise known as the Mihadai or sunset point gives a panoramic view of Mt Asama, Mt Myogi and the surrounding mountain range.
It is indeed a wonderful experience to take in the sights at this height of 1200m ; the thick foliage with autumn leaves of red, yellow, orange and brown whirling and wreathing in the sharp cool breeze, the silhouette of the gentle mountain range stood steadfast in the background.
Nearby is the Kumano shrine. There is a beautiful leafy trail that takes 2 hours to walk down back to where we took the bus. At the entrance of this trail is a sign showing ‘there are bears” . One way to keep them at bay is by making noise with a bell or even conversation.
Another beautiful hiking trail with the option of hopping on the bus midway should one decide not to continue walking is the trip to Shiraito falls. You can access Shiraito falls by public bus outside the Karuizawa station. The ride is about 30 minutes, taking you through lush forest of larch, which is by now bursting with autumn splendour. Shiraito falls means white thread falls and is a 3m high by 30m wide crescent shaped waterfall. Clear water originates from Yugawa river and gushes out from the grounds of Mt Asama. The water fell over the rocks like fine white threads, hence its name.
From Shirato falls, some may choose to trek back to Kyu karuizawa, ‘the Ginza district’ of Karuizawa or use the bus which do stop at another falls called the Ryugaeshi falls.
A notable stop by the bus is at the Old Mikasa Hotel from which a 20 minutes walk will lead back to Kyu karuizawa street. This hotel is an entirely wooden hotel made mostly of cypress wood with western architecture designed and built by the Japanese (1906 to 1970). It was frequented by foreigners and influential people from political and financial circles. It was designated as a national cultural asset since and opened to public viewing (entrance fee Y400). What is most distinctive about this hotel are its ornamental features such as the geometrically designed window frames, engraved curtain boxes and the use of curved brackets. Inside, the retro décor of that era still exudes old world charm.
Manpei Hotel, an old building in a secluded part of the town but restored to its former glory, still functions as a hotel and is a leisurely 15 mins walk on an idyllic path off the main road or kyu karuizawa. John Lennon and his wife Yoko Ono spent many summers at this monumental Manpei Hotel.
A 15 minutes brisk walk from our hotel on hondori road(main road) brings us to Kumoba pond where more autumn ambiance and one may be savor this season to the fullest. Amid the calm reflective water, the trees encircling the pond, the walking trails round the pond gives a different angle to appreciating the beauty of this place.
The options for trekking and nature indulgence is limitless as naka-karuizawa (inner karuizawa)and minami-karuizawa (southern part)also offer more nature trails and activities like birds gazing, golf, horse-riding etc . They are hugely popular past-times.
Food, Shopping and Accommodation
Food in Karuizawa is as refined as the place itself. Among the foods, tender and juicy Wagyu beef with salad, rice and soup was an unforgettable et meal at the food street near the factory outlet. Even an unassuming corner shop serves up the most delicious kinoko(mushroom) pasta.
Besides shopping at the kyu-karuizawa “Ginza” district, the upscale factory outlet (Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza)that is located near the karuizawa station itself is a great window-shopping experience but one has to look hard for bargains . Cost of accommodations are not as formidable as it was thought given this upscale resort town.
Besides hotels, boutique hotels, there are also minshuku (people’s inn) or Japanese guest houses. They are often family run giving you the simple traditional Japanese experience without breaking your bank account. Bath facilities are usually shared. Another budget option is the pension houses that are also often family run. The difference is that they are western style houses.
There is so much more to explore in Karuizawa such as Naka Karuizawa which is an area with upper class restaurants, cafes and shops. You can spend a wonderful time here just sipping coffee and be immersed in the subtle sounds and sights of nature.
While in Karuizawa, it is a good opportunity to take half a day to go to Nagano to visit the world’s only hotspring where the macaque monkeys or snow monkeys live naturally and love soaking in the hot springs heated by the Shiga Kogen volcano. The Jikokudani spa literally means ‘Hell’s valley spa’ and it has acquired this name from the hot steaming water that the monkeys soak in.
The journey to Hell’s valley spa starts from Nagano station. From here, by the modes of transport listed at the bottom of this page, you would arrive at Kanbayashi spa area. Here you would begin your most refreshing trek through the forest that ‘Yumichi promenade’ which would lead to the snow monkey spa park.
This 25 minute trek through the green forest is the most serene I have ever experienced despite being quite deserted. It is not uncommon to spot some local elderly people soldiering on slowly. At one point, the valley would appear in front of you and the sun suddenly shines brightly after the shaded forest trail . The steamy hotsprings can be sighted in the open distance. During our walk, we saw in the distance a brave soul soaking in the hot spring and basking in the glorious sun. He was oblivious to us looking from across the valley.
The entrance to the monkey spa costs Y500. If you walk further down the boardwalk, you would see the snow monkeys frolicking in the hot water pools, some chasing each other and also many more sitting pensively along the edge of the steep cliffs around the area. Do watch your belongings or they may be snatched away. The macaque monkeys make very good subjects for photo taking. Indeed, this is a place that should not be missed if you have come this far to Karuizawa.
Karuizawa can be a day trip from Tokyo but to really enjoy this wooded area, its history and culture, it is advisable to have at least an overnight stay. You are guaranteed to feel refreshed and recharged after this and will wish that you had stayed longer.
How to get there:
Karuizawa: From Tokyo station ride the JR Nagano Shinkansen “ Asama” (bullet train)It takes 1 hour 20 minutes to Karuizawa station.
Snow monkey spa of Hell’s valley spa in Nagano : From Karuizawa station ride the JR Nagano Shinkansen (30 minutes )to Nagano station.
Change at Nagano Station to Nagano Dentetsu railway line( 50 minutes)
Get off at Yudanaka station to catch the bus to Kanbayashi onsen area (12 minutes)
See signboard of Jigogudani or Hell valley spa and walk to monkey spa (30 minutes)
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